1. Cian Coveney

   9 October 2019 at 18 h 52 min

   looking forward to getting my hands on it, please let us know when its available
   1. Thierry

      10 October 2019 at 9 h 39 min

      Thanks for your interest.
      Actually I had some problems with the prototype… It worked but wasn’t reliable enough (EMI, Heat…) that destroyed a few PICs and Mosfets over the time!
      Now I’m using another converter and the results are good and stable.
      10 firsts PCB have been ordered and I expect them to be here end of October to release a first shot of 10 Kits.
2. ennazri

   12 October 2019 at 19 h 16 min

   Hi Thierry,

   Transformer in the photo can be purchased or has to custom build?

   tq.
   1. Thierry

      12 October 2019 at 20 h 23 min

      Hi,
      No need to build one, it will be part of the KIT.
      Th
3. Sylvain B

   1 November 2019 at 10 h 17 min

   Hi thierry,

   “…Oct the 30th. Hitch! The oversized DC converter destroys SCR… I have to change the schematic and order new PCB That slow down the release to December!”

   You are living an unpleasant situation.
   Hang in there, you will find the solution.
   Best regards.
   Sylvain.
   1. Thierry

      3 November 2019 at 17 h 04 min

      Hi Sylvain,
      I finally found a software workaround to calm down the DC converter!
      It’s also possible to add a 10ohm 0.5w resistor in series with D1.
      That reduce the max rev to 13000RPM too.
4. Leonardo

   5 November 2019 at 3 h 50 min

   Necesito un tci para una moto suzuki gsx 400 fws es 4 tiempos 4 cilindros con 2 captores y 2 bobinas dobles ocea con chispa desperdiciada 1_4 y 2_3 tira al mismo tiempo se puede hacer con un pic o necesito dos? Gracias saludos , abrazo desde Argentina..
   1. Thierry

      5 November 2019 at 18 h 49 min

      Please use ENGLISH ONLY.

      When everything is double (1 pickup+1 coil for 2 cyl) you could use 2 separate TCI.
      But TCI IS NOT CDI
      software and hardware are different.
5. Sylvain B

   9 November 2019 at 20 h 20 min

   Hi Thierry,

   I have two questions:
   First, concernig my programming device.
   Is it still compatible with winpic800 ? I dont see this pic in supported device…
   Second, concerning my hall sensor pickup.
   when no magnetic field detected, the output is high and low when detected, the signal is inverted with classical pickup.
   Should I provide a signal inverter (transistor) or not necessery it will work well.

   Regards,
   Sylvain.
   1. Sylvain B

      9 November 2019 at 21 h 33 min

      Thierry,
      The answer at my question2 seems to be evident.
      If I refer the schematic, I will have to install neither the transitor Q3 nor the diode D6 and link the Q3 emitter pin hole with Q3 collector pin hole.
      Do you agree with that ?

      Sylvain.
      1. Thierry

         11 November 2019 at 20 h 06 min

         Hi Sylvain,
         No I disagree. You must use this schematic for this specific use case:
         https://transmic.net/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/input_hall2.jpg

         Re winpic800, I don’t know this soft. I can certainly move the software into a 16F1827 which is more widely known….
         Let me a month to do that.
         1. Sylvain B

            13 November 2019 at 0 h 03 min

            Thank you Thierry, 16f1827 is supported.
            About my hall sensor, I need to pullup the output, either with 5v or 12v.
            For this reason, I use R12 and remove R14 for 5v pullup.
            Although, I would have preferred pullup 12V in order to avoid an hypothetic 78L05 regulator overload…
            1. Thierry

               13 November 2019 at 20 h 13 min

               Then the schematic you can use is:
               
6. Sylvain B

   13 November 2019 at 22 h 15 min

   Many thanks Thierry,
   Let me know when your 16f1827 update will be available, if not I will invest in PicKit3.10 and purchase the kit shortly
7. jenkz26

   30 November 2019 at 19 h 26 min

   Hello Thierry,
   I am considering updating the electrics on my 1975 single cylinder 4 stroke Gilera using Chinese GY6 generator parts and your DC-CDI unit.
   Due to limited space in the engine casing it will be necessary to position the pick up sensor a long time BTDC, possibly as much as 250 degrees BTDC. Will your software/firmware cope with that situation?
   1. Thierry

      30 November 2019 at 23 h 21 min

      Hi,
      Download the XLS file above and try a 250 value for “pickup position”, even with a 100us step it will not work below 1500RPM
      (in one word it’s way too long for the PIC’s 8bits counter to wait from the pickup time to the spark)
      Unless I mod the code to add another step of 200us, that seem feasible if it doesn’t trigger other issues….
      1. jenkz26

         2 December 2019 at 16 h 16 min

         Hi Thierry,
         Thank you for your speedy reply.
         Feel free to disagree but my experience suggests to me it is best not to get into modifying working code, as you say, it may well introduce issues that could prove difficult for me to diagnose . . . is the gremlin hardware, software, mechanical.

         I think it best I concentrate on re – engineering the trigger positioning to better suit your working code.
         I was hoping to get away with not removing the rivets that secure the magnet housing to the crank mounting hub. Along with the need to rebalance, when in use, there is substantial torsional vibration present at that joint that rivets are particularly good at accommodating. I don’t fancy re – riveting, likely to wreck the magnets, magnets do not like shock treatment. Maybe I can turn up some sleeve bolts….I’ll have a think about it.
         I’m getting old, it’s currently too cold for my old bones to tinker in the garage anyway.

         I will buy and build your cdi kit and spend the cold months tinkering with the mapping 🙂
         1. Thierry

            3 December 2019 at 12 h 29 min

            I agree but even so I have modified the code to DCCDI v79r4c0 and what append? ….. I found an existing bug in the XLS sheet !
            So a good from a bad!
            I have tested the code with pkp position at 250° btdc, step 200, advance 14° and found 12.7° adv with the scope. Not too bad !
            Of course the bigger is the step, the poorer the accuracy. Anyway it’s no big deal if you got 13° instead of 14° then asks for 15° 🙂
            1. jenkz26

               3 December 2019 at 16 h 28 min

               Thank you so much for code change and testing. You don’t get that kind of help from Motec or Cosworth….well you do but only for lots $$$$$!
               As too the accuracy; I spent a lot of my working life building engines for race cars, starting in 1978! In those days most engines used kettering ignition (electronic ignition was in infancy and about as reliable as a politician), checking ignition timing with a strobe light on a dynamometer at 6000 or 7000rpm was a waste of time, timing marks would jump and scatter around maybe +/- 5 degrees or more on all cylinders. Accuracy to 1 degree is a marvel and more than adequate. This old Gilera I’m restoring originally used points with centrifugal advance and no doubt scattering ignition.

               I have now ordered the dccdi kit, looking through the parts list, can I just check, what wattage are the resistors?
            2. Thierry

               3 December 2019 at 18 h 38 min

               Sure thing! But guess which is profitable at the end of the month? 🙂
               well, using a scientific lingo, accuracy is poor but precision is high. You get 13° instead of 14° but always get the same value. So no scatter, no jerk around. That’s the most important, indeed.
               Partlist is now updated, except one all res. are regular ones.
8. marty

   20 December 2019 at 10 h 08 min

   hi Thierry,
   on this moment I ordered a AC/CDI with you ,,, hopely quickly delivered. The n i can start my first steps on the xt600 1984. Who had no iginition included anymore.
   – If i want to use this more advanced one, is there a version coming soon that is even better as this great board ? 🙂
   – if I decide for this board is it possible to get it already programmed with the XT600 curve in it ?

   i’m able to programm and solder, but not really interested in this moment . 🙂

   regards
   marty
   1. Transmic

      20 December 2019 at 23 h 17 min

      Not yet. I have to release first ACCDI v10 which is under tests then I plan to start from this base and add a converter to it for a DCCDI v10 but it wont be before quarter 3 or 4.
      It will be great if you want to play with the timing but it’s not what you seem to want to do…

      Yes I can enter a XT600 curve in the eprom or any other timing curve you want. (Use the Excel sheet).
      Just remember it to me if you order…
      BR
      Th
      1. marty

         21 December 2019 at 17 h 19 min

         thanks Thierry !!
         Happy Christmas,,,
9. H Moens

   29 December 2019 at 20 h 57 min

   Hi Thierry,
   I just ordered one of these for an SV650. It says that this will work for 2 cilinders,
   but will this work for a V-twin engine as well ?

   Best regards,
   Herman
   1. Thierry

      30 December 2019 at 12 h 47 min

      Hi Herman,
      Please don’t oversimplify!
      The link For ONE or TWO* cylinders brings you to a PDF which explain that it ONLY works on Synchronous 2 cylinders at 360° thanks to an evenly spaced firing.

      Is the SV650 a 360° engine? Lemme google that for you…
      https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big-bang_firing_order

      
      and the answer is NO, it’s a 270-450° fire timing.

      I can try to clarify even more, but if you want to deal with the heart of your engine, you must be familiar with that knowledge…

      followup on PM pls
      Regards,
      Th
10. Mike farmes

    16 January 2020 at 14 h 44 min

    Hi Thierry
    About the DC-CDI V7
    I have read your linked spreadsheet about the cdi compatibility.
    I have a four stroke single cylinder classic motorcycle- but I only have camshaft sensor from old magneto position. ( I have no easy access to crankshaft for fitting a sensor) Do I understand correctly that the DC-CDI V7 will not work in my application??
    Any other dc-cdi solution I can use.
    Kind regards. Mike
11. Thierry

    18 January 2020 at 14 h 08 min

    Hi Mike
    More or less, that’s why I used orange instead of red color….
    On a electrical POV cdi doesn’t care, he’s got one signal, compute delay, send a spark. that’s it!
    As the trigger is on the camshaft, there is twice less pulses. But you can fool the cdi with the XLS file giving it advance value at 5000rpm for a REAL 10000rpm.
    But but but, there is another thing, it’s a 4cyl with distributor, right?
    That mean spark frequency is 2 time more then on 1cyl!
    So IF i’m not mistaken, all in all both cancelled (1/2 * 2) and you can use a CDI for 1cyl. (5000rpm will be real 5000)
    Don’t take my words for it, do the figure or better do measurements before going further !
    😉
    Th
    1. Mike farmes

       4 February 2020 at 18 h 41 min

       Hi Thierry
       Do we have a chance to buy a complete kit for DC – CDI V7 ??
       Or maybe a completed circuit board ??
       Kind regards
       Mike
       1. Thierry

          4 February 2020 at 18 h 51 min

          Hi Mike,
          Sure! Since Feb the 2nd a complete kit is available in the shop section.
          Best regards,
          Th
12. JOSE LUIS SANCHEZ

    12 February 2020 at 16 h 19 min

    I just received the CD converter that I asked for on February 6 but the printer circuit board v7,9r19 that I asked for on January 29 has not arrived, could you tell me why it does not reach me.
    Thank you so much
13. Thierry

    12 February 2020 at 20 h 05 min

    To get information about orders, please write me a PM directly at frtransmic@gmail.com
    This comment section here is about the blog only.

    I sent a note 12days ago: on the 31 January 2020 at 14 h 52 min to inform you when I posted the order.
    Here is the receipt I got from the Post Office: http://ovh.to/Y1TpGrc
    It’s in normal letter without tracking and I suppose it’s into the hand of French or Spain post office…..
    Regards
    1. JOSE LUIS SANCHEZ

       16 February 2020 at 20 h 39 min

       Gracias Thierry Esperare unos dias mas
14. JOSELUIS SANCHEZ FERRERAS

    16 February 2020 at 20 h 42 min

    Could you tell me the consumption of DC converter
    1. Thierry

       16 February 2020 at 21 h 40 min

       The DC converter alone draw from 0.5A until 1.5Amp depending on the speed.
       (10000rpm = 1.5A)
15. Mike Farmes

    18 March 2020 at 10 h 21 min

    Hi Thierry
    I am using DC CDIV7R6C0 and the assembled board works fine on autospark. and with the default timing curve as delivered.
    My motorcycle is a Vincent Comet – 500 cc single cylinder 4stroke -( 1 cyl so no distributor)
    BUT… it is a special built bike and I have choice to mount the hall sensor on camshaft or crankshaft … both available.
    However — its an old timer bike , idle speed 750 RPM and max speed 4000 rpm.
    I would like if possible to have the advance speed range 700….4000 rpm only in the advance map from 5 to 35 degrees crankshaft advance.
    I am having trouble to get a smooth curve at these low speeds and when I test with dynamic strobescope the spark timing is very jumpy and erratic.
    Could you perhaps suggest a proposal for such low speed motorcycles ?
    Kind Regards
    Mike

    ps I also want to buy more product and have emailed frtransmic@gmail.com seperately
    1. Thierry

       18 March 2020 at 11 h 18 min

       Hi Mike,
       And where did you choose to fix the hall sensor?
       Ref: https://transmic.net/fichiers/doc_cylinders_strokes.pdf
       camshaft is rotating 2 times less and the CDI will be fooled as it see the engine running 350-2000rpm and you wont be able to set so low rpm in XLS
       Here’s an XLSwith:
       Pkp position : 35° BTDC on crankshaft
       91-480rpm : 0deg
       480 – 960rpm: 4deg
       960 – 4200rpm: I used this Comet timing : http://www.pazon.com/files/PDV1-advance.jpg

       Th
       PS: thanks but sales are frozen now due to the events…
16. Danil

    20 March 2020 at 10 h 04 min

    Good day Thierry.
    Why are you using a symmetric triac in V7R2C0 (and in a V7R6C0 a rare triac BT157, with the possibility of forced off state)? Not enough ordinary triac like bt151?
17. Transmic

    20 March 2020 at 14 h 40 min

    You mean TRIAC or SCR ?
    Because SCR is faster to switch off and this DC converter has short OFF periods.
    1. Danil

       20 March 2020 at 15 h 55 min

       SCRs are unidirectional devices as opposed to triacs, which are bidirectional.
       You suggest using a triac BT137, but write that scr is faster and better …
       1. Thierry

          20 March 2020 at 16 h 18 min

          >and in a V7R6C0 a rare triac BT157,
          Call a spade a spade!
          BT157 is a THYRISTOR or a SCR, it’s not a TRIAC.

          >You suggest using a triac BT137, but write that scr is faster and better
          No. That’s what versions are used for!

          In old V7R2 I used a TRIAC then I noticed that scr is faster and better so in V7R6 I use a THYRISTOR.
18. Danila

    20 March 2020 at 19 h 25 min

    version 7.9r2c0
    I see BT137 in the schematic, but I don’t understand why to use it
    but it probably doesn’t matter

    I created a HEX file with curve code, made an import in PICkit 3 v3.01 and do not see any changes in the EEPROM section.
    All cells – FF
    You do not know why this is happening?
    Program memory disabled.
    EEPROM Data enabled.
    pic16F1827 selected.
    1. Transmic

       20 March 2020 at 22 h 05 min

       (yes it works with triac or thyristor)
       >and do not see any changes in the EEPROM
       you don’t see eprom data changed before you burn the PIC ? Really strange!
       Have you followed: https://transmic.net/DCCDIv7/pickit3_16F1847.mp4
       Send me the HEX file to frtransmic@gmail.com I’ll look at it
       Is it a genuine Microchip pickit3 programmer?
       What append if you type in 1 or 2 values manually in the Eprom zone, does it write and read them?
       1. Transmic

          21 March 2020 at 18 h 48 min

          [closed]
          you were trying to burn a 16F1827 with the HEX for 16F628.
          Be careful to use the right XLS file
          (Excel for ACCDI/16F628 and DCCDI/16F1827 are different)
19. Keith Mansfield

    15 July 2020 at 18 h 51 min

    In your latest version of the DC-CDI is it acceptable to use a BT137-600E in place of the BT157-800R for D7? The latest BOM shows a BT157-800R is needed. My PCB is marked DCCDI v7r6c0.
    1. Thierry

       15 July 2020 at 20 h 39 min

       Both work but SCR is better then Triac in DC-CDI as it’s faster!
       (btw SCR needs D2 and C7)
       1. Keith Mansfield

          16 July 2020 at 4 h 56 min

          Thank you. I found a couple of BT157-800R SCR’s and ordered them. I may not need the faster switching because my maximum rpm is only 5,000, but I think I would rather use the faster item.,
20. Keith Mansfield

    5 August 2020 at 3 h 20 min

    D5 is shown as 4V7 diode. Can 5V1 diode be used safely?
    1. Thierry

       5 August 2020 at 7 h 30 min

       Sure !
21. kamcoracing

    14 August 2020 at 21 h 35 min

    Hi Thierry, hope you are doing well. I’m still a little confused about attaching the Pickup. I have some ABS magnetic pickup sensors that require no power and put out a positive first pulse like your Yamaha, Kawasaki scope photo shows. One puts out 2.5V (300-400 rpm) to 13V (5000 rpm) and another puts out 4.3V (low) to 26V (high rpm). Are either of these ABS sensors safe to use as the Pickup, or will the higher voltage damage something? Also, do I wire the Positive lead of the Pickup to PKP-TP1 and Negative to Ground or do I wire Positive to H (pkp_HI)? If I hook to PKP-TP1 do I remove Q2, Q3, R11, and R12, or can I leave them soldered in place? Thank you for making such a nice PCB.
    1. Thierry

       16 August 2020 at 17 h 47 min

       Hi Keith,
       What bike do you have?
       Talking about voltage, both pickup will work. no risk of overvoltage as it’s limited by R13 + D5.
       TP1 stands for Test Point N°1 it’s a output for measure/debug, not an input! Don’t connect anything to TP1 !!
       You have to connect one pickup between GND (J7 or J8) and PKP_HI (J9)
       As it’s Positive first, don’t use Q2,Q3,R11,R12
       If you already soldered the inverter stage: Q2,Q3,R11,R12 no big deal! Just invert the pickup connection too (pkp_hi and gnd) so Positive first will become Negative first but Q2,Q3 will invert everything again and you gets out Positive first at microcontroller input. Make sense?

       The key is that you have to figure out which ABS pkp is for idle, which for high revs and use the latter.
       Pleasure.
       1. Keith Mansfield

          17 August 2020 at 0 h 26 min

          Thank you for clearing that up I will make the first pulse negative by switching the two pickup wires. This is going on an old Kohler boxer twin used in a generator application. I will use the higher voltage pickup so starting is easier (pull rope). What was confusing to me was the Schematic showed a point labeled PKP TP1 so I thought the PKP was one of the pickup inputs. Now I realize it is a test point for the pickup. Another question; will I get a hotter spark if I remove R7 (don’t care about high rpm limits)?
          1. Transmic

             17 August 2020 at 9 h 29 min

             Yes you’ll get a hotter spark but a hotter DC-DC generator too ! Check it out…
             1. Keith Mansfield

                17 August 2020 at 19 h 00 min

                Thank you. I’ll just bypass R7 to test if there is a big difference in spark intensity. If there isn’t, I’ll run with R7 in place. I’ll also check the temperature of the DC generator running with and without R7. What specific part of the DC generator should I be most concerned about?
             2. Thierry

                18 August 2020 at 9 h 54 min

                transistors then transformer.
22. Kamcoracing

    17 August 2020 at 22 h 39 min

    Unit appears to be working OK. Steady, visible spark. Thank you very much. I decided to check some voltages so used the Troubleshooting guide. I removed the PIC, then checked for a short between TP2 and Ground. I did not have a dead short, but 64.7 K resistance. Is this normal or should resistance be zero? I also grounded pin 2 of DC unit to check for high voltage. Got 415V DC. Reason for troubleshooting was expecting several hundred volts between TP2 and Ground when unit running. I get 87 volts AC in Autospark and 123 volts AC at 500 rpm dropping to between 60 and 70 volts AC at 2000 through 4000 rpm. If this is normal, OK, just did not expect voltage to drop as rpm went up.
    1. Thierry

       18 August 2020 at 10 h 21 min

       For sure the voltage drops as rpm goes up as it takes a few millisecond to restart after each spark. The more the rpm the less time to reload!
       Seems pretty low indeed… I got 220Vdc on Autospark mode but it depend on the multimeter.
       Only True-RMS multimeters are able to accurately measure non-sinusoidal ac waveforms with irregular patterns, squares waves…
       1. kamcoracing

          19 August 2020 at 0 h 27 min

          Thank you very much! You were correct about the multi-meter. Says RMS on meter but obviously not true RMS. On oscilloscope I got 217V on Autospark dropping to 197V at approx 5000 rpm. All is good! Now to program my new advance curve. Do you sell a programmed PIC separately in the event I damage this one during programming? Thank you again for such a nice kit.
          1. Thierry

             19 August 2020 at 14 h 50 min

             >Do you sell a programmed PIC separately
             No. You’ll have to buy a virgin 16F1827 and burn the DCCDIv79r7c6 Firmware.
             1. kamcoracing

                24 August 2020 at 0 h 07 min

                When do you expect to get more DC-CDI PC Boards in stock?
             2. Thierry

                24 August 2020 at 7 h 25 min

                They have been ordered. Build time is 2days and delivery time 20days, so boards should come for mid-September.
23. kamcoracing

    4 September 2020 at 6 h 33 min

    I’m having difficulty sourcing the F1 polyfuse for the dc-cdi pcb. Is a 2.2A trip 16V fuse with 1.1A hold current OK?
    1. Thierry

       4 September 2020 at 9 h 07 min

       It’s a 1206size with I hold: 2A, I trip:9A (I max:50a, Pmax:1w, Max-time-to-trip: 3sec)
24. Ralph Loveday

    30 September 2020 at 2 h 41 min

    I have assembled the DC-CDI and it is sparking well in auto spark mode, but I am not getting a spark with a manual trigger i.e. a jumper lead to ground. Is there a lowest frequency for the CDI to spark?
    I have R9, D5, D6, R13, R14 (linked to 12V) in place for points. I measure 3.4 volts at TP1 with the jumper lead disconnected.
    I’ve programmed an EEPROM straight line advance curve just in case a blank EEPROM will not operate correctly?
    1. Transmic

       30 September 2020 at 12 h 12 min

       >Is there a lowest frequency for the CDI to spark?
       Yes, a manual pulse wont work. The processor need a even rhythm to compute the time between pulses and to know the timing to apply.
       >I have R9, D5, D6, R13, R14 (linked to 12V) in place for points. I measure 3.4 volts at TP1 with the jumper lead disconnected.
       Seem perfect.
       >I’ve programmed an EEPROM straight line advance curve just in case a blank EEPROM will not operate correctly?
       Sure! A blank EEPROM won’t do much !
       1. Ralph Loveday

          19 October 2020 at 2 h 54 min

          I have this firmware installed Firmware_DCCDI_16F1827_V7.9R7C6
          The auto sparking is working fine, but I haven’t been able to produce functional EEPROM settings and would appreciate some further guidance. My target motorcycle is a 1973 Gilera 50cc 2 stroke.
          I’ve tried a few different settings with the spreadsheet curve_adjust_DCCDI_v79r5c0.
          1. Thierry

             19 October 2020 at 14 h 40 min

             What do you mean exactly by functional eeprom? What is the symptoms precisely?
             You can send me the curve_adjust_DCCDI_v79r5c0.xls + yourEEprom.hex by PM
25. Cédric

    23 October 2020 at 15 h 11 min

    Bonjour Thierry,
    Comme expliqué, la fabrication du transformateur semble relativement complexe. N’y a-t-il pas d’alternatives toutes faites dans le commerce ? Les transformateurs flyback semblent pourtant monnaie courante.
    Merci
    1. Thierry

       24 October 2020 at 13 h 25 min

       Bonjour,
       Avez vous posté au bon endroit? Car je ne comprend pas la remarque vu que justement ce DCCDI utilise un transfo du commerce disponible dans le Shop
26. Filipe Baptista

    1 November 2020 at 17 h 22 min

    Hello Thierry.
    i have some questions to you.

    1º- it´s necessary programme main formware every time we programme eeprom, or it´s necessary programme once?

    2º in my case i´m using a pit bike magneto+stator on yamaha bike. My pickup position is +/- 130 degree.
    2.1- if i use 130 degree with 10 degree advance the cdi don´t work good, even on test mode (3000rpm) the pulse from coil is very slow. If i use 120 with 10 advance the test mode is ok.
    2.2- let´s think my position is 120 and i will increase advance to compensate the difference from 120 to 130. if i change advance from 10 to 50 (all cells 10 or 50) the spark point don´t change almost nothing, i´m using timing strobe to check timing.

    Thank you
    1. Thierry

       1 November 2020 at 20 h 15 min

       Hello Filipe,
       1) No. just check the “EEprom data” tick and uncheck the “program memory” tick
       2) First upgrade the firmware to the last version. I will send you Firmware_DCCDI_16F1827_V7.9R7C8 by PM.
       BR
27. Kamcoracing

    31 December 2020 at 6 h 55 min

    On DC-CDI is there a best Ohm value for the ignition coil primary? Looking to use a two-wire secondary coil on Kohler 2-cylinder engine. I have a 0.5 Ohm coil and a 1.6 Ohm coil at present. Would a 3.0 Ohm coil be better? I’m looking for reliability and do not want to create a problem for the DC-CDI unit with the wrong primary resistance. Thank you Sir
    1. Thierry

       31 December 2020 at 10 h 00 min

       If you are looking for reliability you’ll want to avoid heating. So the higher ignition coil resistance, the lower current, the less heat.
28. Peshaka

    2 January 2021 at 7 h 42 min

    Can I use this unit with Honda AX 1-250 ?
    1. Transmic

       2 January 2021 at 10 h 41 min

       Yes. Honda AX1 250 or NX250 are DCCDI with external pickup.
29. kamcoracing

    8 February 2021 at 6 h 59 min

    I have your DC-CDI v7r6c0 ignition kit that is working fine on a Kohler 2-cylinder opposed engine. I notice you now offer a v7r7c8 kit. Does the new kit offer a hotter spark, or just some SMD features?
    1. Thierry

       8 February 2021 at 9 h 24 min

       It’s mainly SMD parts except it now comes with a 1.5uf 400v capacitor that gives hotter spark.
       You can replace your 1uf by a 1.5uf or 2uf too !
       1. kamcoracing

          9 February 2021 at 5 h 31 min

          Thank you very much.
30. dominic ouellet

    22 April 2021 at 16 h 32 min

    Bonjour Thierry, c’est tu possible de se parlé en privé car j’ai pas mal de questions pour toi sur la construction d’un DCCDI pour une appli particulier.
31. kamcoracing

    6 May 2021 at 4 h 50 min

    I am using your DC-CDI v7r6c0 ignition on a Kohler Twin. Will the tachometer output circuit provide a useable signal to a Tiny Tach? Usually the Tiny Tach input wire is wrapped around a spark plug wire several times. I wanted to try soldering the Tiny Tach input wire directly to the DC-CDI tach output, but do not want to damage my DC-CDI. If this is not a good idea, what tachometer will work with your DC-CDI? Thank you.
    1. Thierry

       6 May 2021 at 10 h 50 min

       Tiny Tach seems pretty accurate. Low cost Ebay clones are too lazy (2seconds of update rate)
       Both use an antenna wrapped around the spark plug wire and the signal captured is surprisingly high: 100Vac, so if you connect the Tiny tach input to 12V DCCDI tach output, it wont read anything but wont damage the DCCDI. If you really want to use low voltage input tach it seems that Stack Tach SHOULD work as it can use : Hall effect sensor (5 to 16v) or even 5v square signal directly from an ECU.
       1. Thierry

          6 May 2021 at 16 h 05 min

          I will develop a digital tachometer based on a 0.9 Oled screen that will use a 3 to 24volts input… Stay tuned
          1. kamcoracing

             6 May 2021 at 19 h 27 min

             I have a 4-digit, 12v digital display tachometer that uses a Hall sensor as a pickup. I will try that on the DC-CDI. Thank you very much. I also look forward to your OLED tachometer.
32. kamcoracing

    14 October 2021 at 22 h 01 min

    Do you sell the gray box shown in the DC-CDI photo to house the unit? The box shown for the AC-CDI does not mention fitting the DC version Thank you..
    1. Thierry

       14 October 2021 at 22 h 20 min

       No I don’t have any suitable box. This one is a customer’s crafted 3D print box. He kindly shared the files here.
       Internal size must be a least 95x60x30mm
33. kamcoracing

    23 October 2021 at 2 h 04 min

    Just received my Ignition Timing Meter. Thank you. When testing the DC-CDI do I hook the pickup connector in parallel or series with the pickup wires on my engine?
    1. Thierry

       23 October 2021 at 9 h 33 min

       The meter detects a pickup voltage so it needs to be in parallel OFC 🙂
34. Mouaoued

    23 January 2022 at 16 h 28 min

    Hello is work to my RUSI rfi 175cc
    DC-CDI V7
    Need timing ECU PIC16Fxx to my cdi is DC by 12v
35. kamcoracing

    20 February 2022 at 7 h 01 min

    In your newer DC-CDI kits your schematic shows you should add a Varistor if you close Jumper JP4 to get higher voltage. What value Varistor is used, or is the yellow disc in your kit photo the varistor to be soldered? If I need to purchase one, I see Digi-Key has a 430V, 4.5KA, 14mm disc item. Will this be satisfactory? Thank you.
    1. Thierry

       25 February 2022 at 17 h 27 min

       Yes It’s a great security to avoid overvoltage peak when JP4 is closed.
       > I see Digi-Key has a 430V, 4.5KA, 14mm disc item.
       yes Perfect !
36. Arnaud

    17 March 2022 at 18 h 47 min

    Hello,
    I have a 2009 YZF R125 with carburetor (track), is your DC-CDI compatible with this engine and how it works. Do you have the advance curves for this engine? Can I find them with the CDI tester?
    Thanks
    1. Transmic

       19 March 2022 at 7 h 56 min

       Hi,
       According to motostation, wikipedia or the user manual, Yamaha YZF R125 is fitted with TCI.
       The ECU connector shows a load of pins meaning there are a lot of extra features done by this ECU….
37. Arnaud

    20 March 2022 at 0 h 19 min

    Ok thanks
38. Silvio

    6 April 2022 at 12 h 00 min

    Hello,
    normally I would need a TCI for my bike, but the TCI v10 is too big. Now I’m thinking about converting to CDI.
    – How is pre-programmed ignition curve at DC CDI v7?
    – Or is there a smaller TCI unit?
    1. Thierry

       7 April 2022 at 7 h 57 min

       Hi,
       – The proc has the firmware inside and the eprom is empty. Only you know the ignition curve. Not me.
       – a TCI unit embedded in resin without box is 80x60x25
39. Silvio

    7 April 2022 at 8 h 28 min

    Hello Thierry,
    80x60x25 sounds good 🙂
    I want to buy a TCI unit embedded in resin. Is the TCI unit in the plastic box like this?
40. Alessandro Pucci

    28 April 2022 at 11 h 18 min

    Hi Thierry,
    I purchased your dc-cdi, I want use this as ignition amplifier for a tcu programmable ecu, so I setting in the eeprom 0 deg advance, i make hall effect going LOW circuit mod, and i use directly coil signal for drive cdi. maybe this is a correct solution??
    1. Thierry

       28 April 2022 at 19 h 22 min

       Hi, Thank you.
       >maybe this is a correct solution??
       I cannot tell…
       What is a tcu ?
       >and i use directly coil signal for drive cdi.
       It depends on what voltage goes to the coil.
       >so I setting in the eeprom 0 deg advance,
       It depends. IF the output is a TCI then there is the dwell time to compensate. TCI is not CDI
41. Anonymous

    30 August 2022 at 15 h 11 min

    The ink to download Pickit3.0 software is not available. Could not download the software….. Will you please send a new link to download it
    1. Thierry

       30 August 2022 at 18 h 38 min

       Corrected. Thx
42. Nils

    29 September 2022 at 17 h 27 min

    Hi Thierry,
    my bike is a Matchless G80 from ’54. It has got a 6V DC generator with + on the frame. I assume at least the piece between the DC Converter and the Ingnition coil would need to be changed in order to generate a negative impulse. My skills unfortunately are not sufficuent for that. There are plenty of classic british bikes out there with the same type of generator. Ingintion typically is seperate, mostly Lucas ingintions, difficult to maintain and not very reliable. Maybe it is worth investing some time and come up with a modified kit for such bikes with +6V on the frame.
    1. Thierry

       3 November 2022 at 17 h 41 min

       If there is a +6v battery, the best way is to use a TCI and a Hall Effect sensor wired like that:
       
43. Jean-Francois MARIN

    30 December 2022 at 1 h 45 min

    Hello,
    Is it possible to order this product already programmed with the advance curve for a 1986 yamaha 600 XTZ (TENERE)? It will save me from buying a PIC programmer at first.
    Thank you.
    1. Robert Long

       7 January 2023 at 0 h 04 min

       Hi
       Nice bike, I had one. It’s less risky if you enter the timing curve and pickup position data yourself. The curve is in the xt600 manual and its a free download:
       https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1075942/Yamaha-Xt-600-Ac.html
       See P37.
       However, It’s TCI not CDI – You can easily convert to CDI with a bit of rewiring and a CDI coil.
       1. Transmic

          7 January 2023 at 9 h 42 min

          Hi,
          The manual linked above is about XT600 1990 3UY
          AFAIK it’s indeed a TCI whereas JeanFrancois’s is a 1986 (1VJ or 3AJ) = ACCDI
44. Robert Long

    4 January 2023 at 12 h 03 min

    HI
    I’ve just tested mine on my Chinese Suzuki carburettor GN250 clone (Bullit, Hunt 250 – Crankshaft Tab offset 75 deg.) Very happy, nice and stable and starts well. Leave a comment here if anybody would like this particular curve data.
    I couldn’t get my timing light to work effectively, so I used my double beam oscilloscope to fine trim the curve data pickup position. Note though, this will only really work with a reluctor pickup.
    Referring to the schematic: Place one probe on the pickup (at J9 or J10 input). Solder a 4k7 resistor to J6 kill input and ground and attach the other probe. To view timing: Start engine and try running at various rpm, adjusting time/cm to give pulse repetition at 7.2 cm (50 deg./cm). To fine trim curve data pickup position: At low rpm J6 pulse rising edge should coincide with the second reluctor pulse on J9/10 (10 deg. btdc in my case).
    1. Thierry

       9 January 2023 at 15 h 44 min

       Thanks Robert for this feedback and the trick for measuring the advance without timing lamp.
       Here is the XLS you used for the Bullit Hunt 250 (GN250 clone)
45. Alex

    23 January 2023 at 13 h 45 min

    Hi, Thierry.
    Шs it possible to replace the transformer with a toroidal one?
    And could you tell me how to find, according to what parameters, the transformer separately?
    1. Thierry

       23 January 2023 at 20 h 46 min

       Hi, It’s not “just” a simple transformer, it has an extra winding to drive the 2 NPN that drive the primary.
       I don’t think you can find a toroïdal transformer with same characteristics….
       1. Alex

          24 January 2023 at 11 h 43 min

          Thank you for answer. Got it.
          There is no marking on this the transformer.
          All that i could find that this transformer is EE25. But, as i understood, this is ferrite core marking. No any information about coils…
          Maybe you know and can tell me an analogue or a link to such a transformer?
          1. Thierry

             24 January 2023 at 12 h 05 min

             https://transmic.fr/product/dc-converter/
46. Keith Mansfield

    7 April 2023 at 4 h 48 min

    Will a EEprom data hex file created in your Excel spreadsheet Version DC-CDI v7.9r5c0 work properly if the 16F1827 PIC has Firmware_DCCDI_16F1827_v7.9R9C3Full or do I have to use a different version of your Excel spreadsheet?
    1. Thierry

       7 April 2023 at 6 h 57 min

       No. Latest firmware uses new options that are only written by latest spreadsheet.
       1. Keith Mansfield

          7 April 2023 at 17 h 17 min

          Thank you. I have so many versions I’m not sure what works. The latest I have is Excel Version 16F1827 v7.9r25c1 Will this work with Firmware_DCCDI_16F1827_v7.9R9C3 If so, I’ll try that. That firmware is supposedly on the last two kits I bought from you.
47. Alex

    11 May 2023 at 7 h 52 min

    Hi, THIERRY.
    I assembled cdi according to the scheme, only instead of the PIC controller, the arduino controller. The problem is, after applying a control signal to the thyristor, only one spark passes. I think the thyristor remains open. Is the P3-C7 chain responsible for closing? Or is it a software error … Maybe i need to turn off the converter after each spark to remove power from the thyristor? Can you give advice?
    1. Thierry

       11 May 2023 at 8 h 13 min

       >I think the thyristor remains open.
       Yes
       > Is the P3-C7 chain responsible for closing?
       no
       >i need to turn off the converter after each spark to remove power from the thyristor?
       not after, but BEFORE
       1. Alex

          11 May 2023 at 8 h 18 min

          Thank you very much, I will try.
          1. Alex

             12 May 2023 at 7 h 25 min

             Hi, Thierry.
             I fixed the software and it still didn’t work. Then I replaced the capacitor. It was 1 microfarad 270v, I changed it to 1.5 microfarad 400v. Now there is a spark.
             Btw, my converter produces ~400 volts instead of ~270.

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