AC-CDI KTM SEM

 


TM11-03 SEM ignition – 101 407 00


TM11-08 SEM ignition – 101 855 00


TM11-09 SEM ignition – 101 407 01


TM14-01 SEM ignition – 101 815 00


Aprilia 125 RS,RX,MX,Tuareg, Pegaso (1989-1999)


TM14-02 SEM ignition – 101 830 00


TM14-04 SEM ignition – 101 888 00


250 EXC, EGS (1990-1991)
300 EXC, EGS (1990-1991)
250 EXC 2stk (1988-1999)
Aprilia 125 (1989-1998)


TM14-05 SEM ignition – 101 890 00


350 LC4 EGS (1993), 350 LC4 EXC (1993-1994), 350 LC4 SC Super Competition (1994-1995)
400 LC4 Duke (1994-1995), 400 LC4 EGS (1993-1997), 400 LC4 EXC (1993-1996), 400 LC4 RXC (1994-1996), 400 LC4 SC Super Competition (1995-1998), 400 LC4 SX (1998), 400 LC4 SXC (1997-2000)
500 LC4 EGS (1988-1992), 500 LC4 EXC (1988-1989), 500 LC4 MX (1988-1989)
540 LC4 SXC (1998-1999)
600 LC4 EGS (1988-1993), 600 LC4 EXC (1988-1993), 600 LC4 MX (1987-1992)
620 LC4 Competition (1997-1999), 620 LC4 Duke (1994-1995), 620 LC4 EGS (1994-1996), 620 LC4 EXC (1994-1995), 620 LC4 Rally (1994-1997), 620 LC4 RXC (1994-1996), 620 LC4 SC Super Competition (1995-1998), 620 LC4 Supermoto (1998-1999), 620 LC4 SX (1994-1999), 620 LC4 SXC (1997)
640 LC4 Rally (1997)
660 LC4 Rally (1997)
Husaberg FE FC MX 350 400 501 600 - 1991 to 1998
Husqvarna TC TE 350 610 - 1992 to 1994


TM14-06 SEM ignition – 101 894 00


TM14-07 SEM ignition – 101 888 01


250 EGS,Enduro (1997-1998)
300 EGS,SX,Enduro (1996-1998)
360 EGS (1996-1997)
380 EGS (1998)

TM14-04 is exactly the same as TM14-07 (same advance circuit, only the PCB has been changed)


Flywheel and stator

Click here for more info
 
On the right side of the bike.
right side
 

Oscillogram.

red charging coil = 200Vac
green pickup coil = +/-6Vac
black frame ground
yellow lighting coil
blue lighting coil

Cliquer sur les fils

yellow= 12Vac 12Vac green= pickup green= pickup red= charging coil red= charging coil red= charging coil

Click on wire to visualize the signal available on this wire, when the engine idles…

Pictures

Inside the stator

ZoomZoom

Thanks to Zoli Bihari


Stator.

Resistances map.

OHMs Red green black yellow blue
red 1777 1754
green 1777 23
black 1754 23
yellow 0,2
blue 0,2

Until 1998 pickup coil (green – black) was 23ohm. After it’s 165ohm.

Here is how STATOR looks like when measuring connectivity , resistance and capacitance between wires:


Ignition coil

Click here for more info
 
It’s not a simple coil! There are some electronics inside…

The “black box” is part of the coil:

red charging coil = 200Vac
green pickup coil = +/-6Vac
black frame ground
orange handelbar kill switch

Here is how COIL/CDI looks like when measuring connectivity , resistance and capacitance between wires:


Schematic.

Orange “BLACK BOX” from a KTM 620LC4 – 1997
 


 

Replacement.

To replace a TM14-04/05/07, use an ACCDI v2.6+ plus a standalone capacitive ignition coil rated at least for 500cc.
How To wire an ACCDI v26+ to replace a TM14-xx box.

2 possible DIP switches settings:
1 ON - 2 ON - 3 OFF - 4 OFF - 5 ON - 6 ON - JP3: cut open - RV1: 0 to 1
or
1 OFF - 2 ON - 3 OFF - 4 ON - 5 OFF - 6 OFF - JP3: cut open - RV1: 0 to 1


 

Synchronization.

Click here for more info
 

  • Pickup and Spark Signal at 1460RPM.
  • Pickup and Spark Signal at 2880RPM.
  • Pickup and Charge voltage at 1770RPM.
  • Pickup and Charge voltage at 2370RPM.


 

Measurements.

Click here for more info
 
LC4 kickstart Ignition coil with SEM before 1999 SEM TM14-04 TM14-07

+ pole – pole Measure
Coil side
red black 47k
red green 47k
red orange 0ohm
black ignition lead 2,0Kohm / more or less 0.3K
Stator side
black red 1,7kohm
black green 23 ohm more or less 5 ohm
red green 1,7kohm
yellow+yellow blue 0,2ohm

————————————————-
LC4 kickstart Ignition coil with SEM (ignition coil) after 1998 SEM TM14-05

+ pole – pole Measure
Coil side
red black 47k
red green 47k
red orange 0ohm
black ignition lead 2,0Kohm / more or less 0.3K
Stator side
black red 1,7kohm
black green 165 ohm more or less 20 ohm
red green 1,7kohm
yellow yellow 1ohm

————————————————–
LC4 electric start with KOKUSAN
Impulse transmitter coil red green 100ohm more or less 20%
Stator black / red red / white 12,7ohm more or less 20%
loading coil mass / yellow 0,65ohm more or less 20%
loading coil white / yellow 0,16ohm more or less 20%
————————————————–
LC4 kickstart with KOKUSAN super comper 1999-2003
Impulse transmitter coil white green 60 -120ohm
stator red / black-yellow 0.45 – 0,56ohm
Stator black / red and red / black 0.45 – 0,56ohm
————————————————–
Ignition coil KOKUSAN
Primary blue / white – mass 0,45 – 0,56ohm
secondary blue / white – zundkabel 0.45 – 0,56ohm
————————————————-

98 thoughts on “AC-CDI KTM SEM”

    1. I’ve some available, cause mine GS620 SC stopped sparking instantly. You can also look for a replacement from Electrexworld but KTMdealers don’t love it. Steve from MOTOPLAT: http://www.uk-motoplat.com/ 0044 (0)7516 350 134 repairs them for a fixed price of 185 GBP

  1. I’ve a KTM GS620 SC from 1996 with a kickstarter, it is a 4T . Who can give a suggestion or has already experience which CDI published on transmic.net is usable for this engine?

  2. buenas tardes. Me podrian ayudar con una bobina stator para una motocicleta KTM LC4 620, que este nueva
    para colombia
    Bogota

  3. Hello found the schematic to be a little outdated any chance you can help source more modern components?
    I am looking for an AC CDI for my KTM 620 (I think the ignition timing is either 36 or 38) will the AC CDI product you sell work for me?

    1. Hello,
      I would not say “outdated”, it’s not about Fashion !
      This schematic is the genuine one from KTM using techno from the 2000’s
      A processor is needed if you want to do fancy things but for triggering a SCR at 5 volts a diode do the job perfectly and in reliable manner.
      Furthermore there is no battery on most of offroad KTM,Maico,Husky as µproc need a stable power…

      AFAIK Your KTM620 can use a SEM ignition (AC-CDI) or Kokusan (DC-CDI)

  4. Hi there, great page thanks for this info.

    I have a 1996 KTM 620 with an SEM stator, getting no spark. After testing the resistance across the stator wires (all seem ok) i note that the black lead has continuity with the frame of the stator itself, and therefore the bike. Is that normal ?

    i don’t understand how that could be given that the kill switch effectively connects the black lead of the coil (through the orange) to earth to kill the motor.

    any ideas would be appreciated.

    1. Hi, thanks!
      Yes it’s normal, CDI is grounded to the frame through the black wire.
      No, the orange wire kill the engine by connecting the RED wire to ground, (not the black one)
      Disconnect the orange wire to check if you don’t have a permanent kill….
      Th

      1. ok cool sorry to be obtuse, but the cdi being grounded to the frame via the black means that the *stator being grounded to the frame via it’s ‘own’ metal body is normal. gonna try disconnecting the orange wire tonite.

        cheers

          1. ok i have a spark but it seems to my amateur eye that the spark is weak and / or intermittent. i am able to hold the sparking end of the plug against the frame and am only slightly uncomfortable with the shock, from memory it should give me a whack (i didn’t start by holding it in my fingers!). Up until now i have had intermittent probs including problems hot-starting, which i understand can point to a bad stator. Coil resistances are correct, plug lead and plug are ok. Gonna bite the bullet and replace the stator. I’ll let you know how it goes.

            cheers

  5. Hi again, sorry to abuse your hospitality but you clearly know more about this than me.. I read your message below late and when ahead and ordered a stator. it arrived and i’ve installed it, in my opinion the spark is better and importantly consistent when the plug is outside of the bike. however, i have a serious ‘kickback’ problem, which i guess is caused by bad (too advanced?) timing. The new stator does not have a timing mark on it, and the old one didn’t either so i have no idea how to time it ! even on the most ‘retarded’ setting it kicks back (i cant go back any further), never used to do that with the old stator. is that further indication that the cdi is faulty? i don’t have an oscilloscope btw. i appreciate any advice you might have,.

    1. It’s a SEM stator?
      I think that the 3 bolts are not aligned so it’s not possible to fix it the wrong way… Right?
      Have you at least compared your measurements on the CDI with the resistance map above ? Everything match?
      Without any measurements neither oscilloscope traces done before and after replacement it’s just a shot in the dark !

      1. sorry i should have been more explicit, i have measured the resistances of the cdi and they match your table above (SEM before 1999). You can potentially mount it 3 ways, by rotating it on the 3 holes, i have mounted it the way it appears in all the photos on the net (and the way i found the old one). after that there is a degree of movement to adjust the timing, because the holes are not circular. gonna get back out there tonite after finding some detailed pix on the net of the position of the marker, hoping its the same on mine. problem is this game is breaking my ankle !

          1. Hi again, sadly that’s not the case (i’m pretty sure), lookup in the pic on this page and you see that the inspection window is not correlated with the ‘poles’ of the stator, its kinda 5 o’clock if the pickup is noon. after playing in the garage there is only one way it can go, the way in your photo, and i’m not able to retard it enough for it to work… sigh.

          2. Well we can assume it’s fit the good way then!
            Seem you were right and the stator failed but the new one COULD be different and give too much voltage and the CDI trigger sooner…
            Try to add a 1K adjustable resistor in series with the GREEN/pickup input wire.

  6. Hi again, in my frustration i went ahead and bought a new cdi to go with the new stator.. ST5500L and CD5004. my thinking was that replacing the 2 together should eliminate any incompatibilities.. wrong. the kickback problem is still there. if i switch back to my old stator, the kickback problem goes away (with either cdi!), it can sometimes ‘just’ idle for ~10 s but then dies, the reason why i wanted to replace it in the first place. think i’m gonna try your idea of putting a 1k resistor on the pickup circuit to more closely emulate the original stator.

      1. hi again, i put an adjustable resister in series with the green pickup line. tried kicking it with the plug outside of the bike to see at what point the spark dies, for me i only needed to add about 30 ohms before it stopped sparking. wouldn’t start with the resister in place though. remove the resistor and it goes back to the kick-back behavior. i’m wondering if the company that supplied the stator mixed models, gonna ask them to send a replacement.

          1. Thierry: YOU ARE THE MAN !!!!! I put 3 diodes in parallel with each other, in series between the cdi and stator and… VROOM ! no kickback, everything works ! would you mind explaining what this means ? please send me an email so i can send you a couple of beers :)))

          2. Cool ! Thanks to consider buying me a beer! There is a Paypal Donate button on the left side of this page 😉
            Definitely this adaptable stator is somewhat different…
            follow-up on PM

  7. Hi
    I have a KTM EXC 250 1998 with no spark.
    I have checked SEM stator resistance values:
    Black-Red- 1.7K Ohm
    Black-Green- 168 Ohm
    Green-Red- 1.9K Ohm (instead of 1.7K Ohm)
    Yellow-Yellow-0.4 Ohm (instead of 1 Ohm)

    Should I get a new stator or the values are OK?

    1. Hi,
      Those values are OK.
      yellow / yellow is certainly 0,2ohm like models before ’99
      Anyway yellow/yellow are the 12Vac coil and you don’t have issue with +12v Isn’t?

      1. Long time, but I haven’t seen your reply and unfortunately the bike still doesn’t have a spark.
        I never checked the 12V because the bike doesn’t have lights.

        If the values are OK, should I order a CDI unit? Or the stator might still be the problem?

        1. No I think the stator is fine. if you want confirmation, remove the sparkplug, rotate the crankshaft with a drill and measure the outcoming voltage.
          ACCDI v26+ can do the job with an external standalone ign. coil

          1. Thank you very much for your help.
            How much voltage should I expect from charging coil and pickup coil ?

            And another question- can I test the existing CDI using the 2 yellow wires and a 12-220 V transformer in order to replace the charging coil? Do I need to use a rectifier? If it can work, how exactly should I connect all parts?

          2. IDK what YOUR multimeter will say!
            Only True-RMS multimeters are able to accurately measure non-sinusoidal ac waveforms with irregular patterns, squares waves…

            Look closely to the scope trace above: pkp: 2v/div , charging: 100v/division
            https://transmic.net/sem/2370rpmHT.jpg

            You want to use the 12vac from the lights coils ?
            Yes it should work more or less… Transformers are 50Hz and the AC signal is way more !
            Or use 2 transformers: First a 220-12 connected on the 220vac main power, and a second 24-220 (in reverse mode)
            So you should get 110Vac at the output.
            Use a rectifier?
            Only if you want to destroy your ACCDI 🙂

          3. Yes, I want the lights coil to replace the charging coil.
            Is it the correct way to connect ?:
            Connect 1 yellow wire of the stator to each side of the 12v side of transformer.
            Connect the 220v side of transformer to- bike frame, CDI red wire.

  8. Hi Thierry,
    I have a problem with sem tm 14-04 , all the measuremens are the same that sem 14-05?
    The only difference i have found its coil green black , about 1.5Mohm (almost open)instead of 47Kohm
    Is this ok for 14-04 or may i have to change for a new one?
    Thanks in advance
    Regards

    1. Hi,
      Yes except the pickup values are identical.
      1.5Mohm is clearly out of spec measurement !! I think it’s faulty
      Have someone to lend you one or build the ACCDI analog v2.4 is you know about electronic.
      BR

  9. thanks, Thierry
    sorry I said wrong colour:
    I said ignition coil green black , but really it´s ignition coil red green.( about 1.5Mohm (almost open)instead of 47Kohm),
    therefore the ignition coil may be damaged.
    Anyway my stator readings are ok, but the stator pickup it´s 165ohm
    the bike it´s Aprilia Red Rose 125 1990 ,therefore , I assume that someone changed the stator for a new one ,
    and leave the 14-04 ignition coil.
    With this stator reading (165ohm) may I install 14-05 ?
    or it will work with 14-04/14-07 ?
    Regards

    1. Hard to know…
      I think it should work with TM14-04 but a 165ohm pickup provide more voltage and “could” harm a 14-04 sooner or latter…
      Better is to go for a 14-05 to adapt stator and CDI

    1. Honestly I don’t care when a new one for a 250cc cost only 10$
      🙂

      Edit: The primary handle 200V and 10000V is the minimal value to get a spark at the secondary, so the ratio must be at least 1/50 until 1/100.
      Wire are thinner then that: around 200turns of 0.8mm and 20000 x 0.05mm

  10. HI Thierry is the stator 3 phase or single phase? There are 2 yellow wires and 1 light blue wire coming out of the stator for lighting. My bike is wired with the two yellow wired together then to the lighting and the blue to the chassis ground. My bike reads 12vac and the lighting has flickering at low RPM and the LED lights I added are very dim until I increase RPM. I have no Battery. Thanks for your continued support to this post

    1. Hi,
      My fault! it’s indeed 2yellow and 1blue (corrected above).
      IMHO it’s a one phase. If you haven’t I suggest to replace the battery by a capacitor that will act as a current storage during the 80% of time when stator doesn’t give anything. (pulses of 15v during 20% of time)
      This 47000uF/25v/18€ capacitor SHOULD fit…
      If there was no battery and just AC, you MUST add a 5A bridge rectifier before the cap.

      1. Thanks for the suggestion. The one I see in the parts fiche is 10,000 Mf, on the actual item is written 10,000uf. Which is confusing. Is it okay to oversize the capacitor in this situation?

        1. what is confusing for me is the way you write it down!
          I strongly doubt that a official datasheet says: 10,000 Mf with a comma and a capital M !!
          LOL it’s simply the International Metric System 10mF = 10000uf
          yes it’s OK.

  11. Hi Thierry, my compliments for all the explanation you are doing.

    question: do you know anybody that installed any of your Ac-CDI in a Aprilia 650 (~BMW 650Funfuro). the old version earlier than 1995? The originals are difficult to get and old, so I am looking for a replacement. Apparently these old one worked with one trigger coil and one trigger from the generator..?

    1. Hi,
      Thanks. One person was interested to build one for Aprilia pegaso 650 GA 1994 (with one 240ohm pickup) but I don’t know if he followed up….
      What is the reference of the box? I believe that
      Nippon Denso 070000-0780 / 1992-1994 / 9wires are ACCDI
      Nippon Denso 070000-0790 / 1995-1997? / 6 wires are DCCDI

      1. Indeed, it is Nippon Densi 07000-2170 / 1992-94/ I think 9 wires and a 240 ohm pickup. And that is what puzzled me. Two different guys told me that the CDI has one external trigger and one of the AC coils is also a trigger. I have schematic of the stuff but am not sure how to compare these to yours.. your opinion is very much appreciated!

        1. You can send me the schematic by PM. My email in on top right link “contact”
          Is it a ACCDI too?
          CDI can be triggered by external pickup or by the stator, but I never seen both at the same time! That is no reason to do so !

  12. thierry, schematic is more connection setup to CDI and alternator not a schematic of the ignition (helas) you can find it here. Obviously it is a AC-CDI.

    https://wetransfer.com/downloads/c4044dbb216301fab8b81cff37df835720191216170122/d0c06ecc03681676a6f7f2cdd409470f20191216170122/065fd6

    A guy from carmo.nl told me the dual trigger story. It seems to be true as I still have a spark on the highest delay without using the separate trigger coil (and using another working CDI.)

    all your idea are welcome.

    1. It’s a wiring diagram not a schematic. it is here.
      Well perhaps the external pickup has been added later on production to ease the kick start…?
      Yamaha XT600 also had 2 pickup for low and high revs.
      If and only if the internal pickup for hi revs puts out ONE pulse per rev, ACCDI v7.9 can be use. low(aka12°) attached to the external pkp, Hi(36°) to the internal one.

      1. thanks, maybe I will do that and use only one pickup. With the successor of the bike >1995, they skipped the 2 for just 1 trigger (and used battery driven CDI). thanks for the input

        1. Works with a single sensor! (I bought the PCb already in March for another project..:)). so, naturally I have to change the position of the magnet. (essentialy it is then the setup of the 1995+ Aprilia/BMW).

          There is one other problem now. My impression is that the magnet is partly demagnitized or so. The signal is weak. did you ever encounter that, and what did you do? use another trigger coil (more windings, more ohms?)? or did you glue another magnet (seems a little tricky for underway..)

          in any case thanks a lot for your help…

          1. Great. I suppose you use the external pickup which is for LOW RPM, so you need to move it?
            With some luck you can try the EXTRA-ADVANCE feature

            No I haven’t had. Beware ! Space between rotor tab and pickup is EXTREMELY sensitive. If the pickup is moved away from the tab for a tiny mm the signal gets weak.
            A hall effect sensor is easy to glue, some guy here have done it. The MAJOR trick is to fit in very very tight, then with glue sealing it seem to carry on the heat well.

          2. Hi Thierry, bought your PCB 7.9 (Printed Circuit Board AC-CDI 16F628 v7.9 ) in march last year. fiddled around with it quite much and finally build in a Pegaso (here above). now I d like to do that again, but V7.9 is not there anymore in the shop? do you still have one, or can I find PCB anywhere? Much obliged..,.
            Petrus.

  13. Have you ever worked on k10 with sem tm11-10 cdi? It’s 94 husky te350. Seems to have an additional wire for charge coil (red wire,blue wire), trying to figure out if I can wire this to a stator that has just red black green ignition wires. I have the stator unpotted. Good work on the Kim unit

    1. No I haven’t seen a TM11-10.
      If they kept the same color by function, then:
      Black: GND Red: charging coil Orange: Kill sw Green: pickup
      and there is only one extra wire: Blue.
      I don’t know what it’s used for…. Any ohm measurement between blue and other wires?
      I would probably connect the TM11-10 to the same colors on the stator and live the Blue wire disconnected.

      1. It worked. Started right up. The blue wire is connected to the each charging coil between them on the outer edge with the red connected at the last one. My lights still don’t work. The whole reason for the stator swap. I get 5vdc at idle and with throttle it drops off

  14. man, can i reproduce the stator voltage from another source? like a car converter 12v-220vac
    and use the pickup coil from the stator
    i start an scooter with that method, but idk if its working on ktm lc4 540 sem ignition , tm 14 04

  15. we have a problem with a replacement for the tm 14-05 i have a cd5004 from hpi (https://www.hpi.be/item.php?item=CD5004) and i have a problem with it and the same with my original tm 14-05. the problem is that i have infinte ohm between black and red , and between green and red do you maybe have an idea what the problem could be the replacement is new 1 time in use and have this issue could it be a problem with another part

    MfG Tobias Hagen

    Ps. Sry for my bad englisch i am not a native englisch speaker

  16. Hi Thierry, bought your PCB 7.9 (Printed Circuit Board AC-CDI 16F628 v7.9 ) in march last year. fiddled around with it quite much and finally build in a Pegaso (here above). now I d like to do that again, but V7.9 is not there anymore in the shop? do you still have one, or can I find PCB anywhere? Much obliged..,.

  17. Hi Thierry,
    I have a KTM 300 95. It doesn’t spark.

    I have checked SEM stator resistance values:
    Black-Red- 1.7K Ohm
    Black-Green- 162 Ohm
    Green-Red- 1.9K Ohm
    Yellow-Yellow-0.5 Ohm

    I have checked the TM 14-07
    Black-Red- 47K Ohm
    Red-Orange- 0.3 Ohm
    Green-Red- 300K Ohm
    Black-Ignition Lead -Open Circuit

    The coil appears to be broken. Can I install a TM14-06?

    Thanks,
    Ricardo

    1. Hi Ricardo,

      Yes I guess.
      TM14-06 & TM14-07 have the same advance curve
      TM14-04 has a different advance curve
      TM14-04 TM14-06 TM14-07 share the same internal coil
      Th

  18. Hello,
    I have ktm 250 1994 with SEM Ignition.
    My flywheel magnet rotor broke. And there are no magnets left. Where i can find a new one ?

  19. Hello! Could somebody please send a full description or all important details about the differences between TM14-xx variants?
    I’m interested in the difference between the units. (Especially Tm14-01 and Tm14-04).
    Thanks!

  20. Hi i have ktm lc4 that lost spark while running the cdi is bad. It poped and leaked out. It is tm11-08, i have measures stator and that seems ok. Can someone help me where to find it? Or what diferent part do buy ? Thanks

    1. Is it the original CDI? I though TM11-08 was for 2stk and LC4 comes with TM14-05… Anyway there are not available anymore by KTM!
      Read above how to adapt an ACCDIv26

  21. Hello. I would like to replace my KTM coil TM14-07 with the ACCDI 2.6+unit. What size (voltage output or voltage multiplier) external coil I would need to pair it with to work correctly?

    Thank in advance.

    1. Hello,
      Any ignition coil designed especially for CDI (never use those for TCI) and for the same CC that your bike.
      There are more or less identical and unfortunately voltage ratio are never mentioned. It’s a shot in the dark!
      The original one is 0.3ohm primary and secondary is: 5.8Kohm / around 40Henri
      BR

      1. The coil I plan to use is from a 2007 Kawasaki ninja 500 which I believe is a CDI system with 1 coil per cylinder (250cc each). The primary has 4 ohm resistance and the secondary has 19.9K ohm resistance. That’s a pretty big difference from the numbers you cited above. Is there a chance of damage on my new ACCDI 2.6?

        1. >4 ohm resistance and the secondary has 19.9K ohm resistance ?? OMG !
          To my understanding it seems to be a TCI coil, not a CDI coil. There are not equivalent at all!
          it “can” damage the CDI and if it doesn’t, performances will be poor.

          1. one correction. The readings are 4 ohm for the primary and 14.5K ohm for the secondary. I originally measured through the spark plug cap with a 5k ohm resistance. I do believe the bike it comes from, 2007 ninja 500, is a CDI bike. I did start it up and it does work. But I will not continue to use it if you believe it could damage the CDI in the ling run.

            BTW, I love the ACCDI 2.6. Great job!

          2. After further research, I stand corrected. It does appear to be a TCI coil. I will find something different.

            Thanks.

  22. I am replacing the TM14-07 CDI on a 95 KTM 250exc. I have 2 questions.
    1. I purchased the ACCDI 2.6 but the capacitor is a L105J 400V P0118, (not the one shown in the 2.6 image L105J 250V E0920). Will this work on a 95 ktm 250exc 2 stroke? Do I need the 2.6+ instead?
    2. I can see that I should cut open the JP3 jumper to lower the timing advance for the 2 stroke. Do I still need to change the potentiometer to modify what happens at high RPM or is that only for 4 stroke setups?

    I look forward to your response.
    Thank you,,
    Steve

    1. 1) No worries. “L105J 400V” is stronger than “L105J 250V” no need to upgrade to 2.6+
      2) No JP3 is not for 2strokes. JP3 cut is used to set the timing for KTM.
      but JP4 is to be close for 2stk use.
      Potentiometer is always used. Start with max position 4 then decrease slowly while trying to rev up the engine. When it wants to rev up you’ve got the setup.

  23. Yes I misspoke on JP3. I did cut it.
    I will close JP4 as suggested
    And thank you for the additional info on the potentiometer.

    Again, the ACCDI 2.6 is a great product! it brought my old KTM back to life!

  24. I own a ’94 620 SX(kickstart only) and i am not sure but i believe the stator has gone bad.At first i thought it was the regulator because my lights kept burning(all of a sudden lights would go really bright and burn). Regulator is the old single phase(OEM 491.11.434.000). I tried the replacement regulator (OEM 58311034200) but i get same issue – lights will get really bright and burn. Spark seems to have no issue. I am not sure though which are the correct resistance values for this stator? Also, the cdi i cannot tell which part number it has(i think it is TM 14-05).
    What readings should i get from stator? Should i just buy a new stator, either from Electrex or from RM Stator?

    Thanks a lot for any info/advice you can give me.

    1. Hi,
      It’s certainly a TM14-05 and for the stator readings, I don’t hide anything, ALL values that I know are on the page and in the comments.

      how much AC before the reg at idle and high revs.?
      how much DC after the reg at idle and high revs.?

      I would check in the order:
      1) a bad fuse (no battery load = regulator cannot work)
      2) a bad battery or bad connection to battery (no battery load = regulator cannot work)
      3) a bad ground (bad gnd = regulator cannot work) Check wires, cnx to frame and stator cnx
      4) a faulty stator.
      Compare oscilloscope AC traces with the ones on my page.
      Th

  25. Hi and thanks for fast reply! Really appreciate it.

    The bike has no battery-straight kickstart only 🙂
    I will have to check the readings again but when it burned the lights the regulator showed more than 23-25v – in last measurement it reached 42v!!
    I will have to check again with the regulator, but previous readings where around 13v at idle and then sudden spike and it goes over 20v and it burns the lights.
    Regarding the oHM readings you have above: You have ohm readings for stator with 14-05 cdi after 1998 or before 1999 with 14-04
    So, if my cdi is probably 14-05 i should get these values stator side:
    black red 1,7kohm
    black green 165 ohm more or less 20 ohm
    red green 1,7kohm
    yellow yellow 1ohm
    I will check again the ground as you said. Which wirse cnx to frame you mean?

    1. 42v sometimes! That’s brings down to:
      3) a bad ground: regulator is connected to the frame=gnd
      Check all eye connectors screwed on the frame, every black or brown wires (check wiring diagram for colors)
      5) bad connection between regulator and main load/light (no load = regulator can’t work)

      Re the stator, those readings are for the ignition part of it. As the spark is great and ignition coil is separate from light coil, reading are not relevant. Only light coil readings are useful to know and they are around 0.2, 0.3 volts (until 1ohm) between gnd and yellow.

  26. Hi Thierry, I’m hoping you might be able to shed some light on this no spark issue I got going on here. I read through a ton of your posts above but didn’t quite see a 2000 KTM 400 SXC… It seems impossible to find ignition coil info. I got the bike used, the crank bearing seized so I split the cases and rebuilt the motor. Bike sat for a year or two and now has no spark. So I got new gas, plugs, battery. Had the carb serviced by a local shop (keihin FCR, i think 38) and actually put a new stator just a few days ago to no avail. So it has to be the coil right? So of course its 20 years old and they don’t make them anymore. But there has to be a way to wire up the red, green, and black wires from the new stator to an aftermarket coil right? The two yellows and the yellow/blue goes to the voltage regulator. It seems someone took out the original capacitor and put in a 12v battery. the kill switch is ok, there is no on/off switch, no kick stand or clutch switch. Oh and its kick start only 🙂 Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
    – JP

    1. Hi Jacques,
      Sure there aren’t much info on KTM ignition over the internet… Neither at the dealer.
      Ah the crank bearing seized. Those engine don’t like to be driven at low rpm, there are way too much vibrations. Risk is less with a driver who always ride WOT !
      The stator having been changed to no avail, no kill sw, the fault tend to be on the ignition box…
      When you said an aftermarket coil I’m unsure you’re aware that it’s not a ign. coil but a CDI plus an ignition coil both glued in one single box!
      You’ve to find a second hand TM14-05 box or to adapt an aftermarket CDI plus an external coil.
      See https://transmic.fr/wp-content/sem/cablageACCDIv26KTM.pdf for the wiring.
      Th

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